You being the process by removing two small screws from the side of the lense mount. You need to have screwdriver with perfect fit so that the screwdriver doesn't slip over the screw and damage it.
Whole lense bayonet mount
Four, slightly larger screws hold on the larger piece. Remove these and the mount will come off. Be carefull not to apply too much pressure against the lense if you have it resting against the table top or similar.
Half and Half
Six screws in total and you should have released the mount. There is a thin washer ring between the mount and the lense. The washer ring can be seen sitting on top of the lense on the left. There have been reports about some of the lenses having more than one ring straight from the factory. Just keep them safe and remember to place them back when you assemble the lense.
I've spotted couple of reports where people have ordered couple of extra washers to be placed between the lense and the mount. This to make sure that the lense is kept as far as possible from the flipping mirror inside the camera. As the clearance is only parts of one millimeter there is a slight possibility that the lense indeed hits the mirror if the tolerances of the lense construction are bad. As there are dozens of successful mods done so far and only couple of these reports of near misses or slight hits of the mirror (that need these extra washers) so I'm not that sure if this is a major issue or not. dSLR cameras are not that cheap and if your mirror does break the service cost will be relatively high so it is up to you to continue to do this mod or not. Perhaps it was a good thing that I found out about this clearance problem after I had done the mod already. ;)
Top - Bottom
When you flip the mount around you'll see why we need that epoxy in this mod. When you cut away that extra ridge the center part of the mount will fall off. Some people have accepted this and made the cut just by using a hacksaw. Makes the mod bit easier and faster to do but there are speculations whether that center piece, or lack of it will affect the image quality or possibility of lense flares. As it only takes more time to do this with epoxy, I decided that the extra 12 hours wouldn't matter that much and went that way.
Filled with epoxy
Mix up the epoxy and fill the empty space with it. Don't go crazy with the amount of the epoxy, just enough that you are getting close the the edge of the electronics connector hole. Try to keep the surface smooth as any ridge protrusion will hit those chips inside the lense when you assemble it thus preventing the mount from sitting steady over the lense.
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